Sarah Marsh MW for Word Fine Wine worldoffinewine

Hautes cotes de Nuits « Aux défois » 2018 à 2023

J&J Archambaud is among several producers in Vosne-Romanée with land on the Hautes-Côtes just above the village in the lieu-dit Aux Défois (or Au Défoi), where he describes the soil as “limestone and clay, very rich in iron.” I tried a vertical from 2018 to 2023, a run of hot vintages, with the exception of 2021, in which the texture was consistently smooth, but even with climate change, there is a cool, herbaceous, stemmy twang. All were 12.5% ABV. »

Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Aux Défois 2023
« A lightly crunchy Hautes-Côtes, with a blueberry aroma and a zesty and herby attack. It is light-bodied, with a waft of leafy tannin and a red-currant crackle to the finish. 2025–27. 80″